We all breathed a collective sigh of relief when the rain finally arrived. You could almost hear gardeners up and down the country muttering, “at last” or “the garden really needed that.” It’s been hard work to keep plants thriving after such a long, dry summer, But here we are, lawns greening again, a few late blooms hanging on, and the garden refreshed.
Despite the lack of rain, it really was a fantastic summer for growing. Higher light levels mean stronger, healthier growth, and although I’ll never forget the endless watering we had to do from March through to the August bank holiday, I’d still take that kind of summer over a cloudy one any day.
August was a hectic month with activities happening all over the hotel and off-site, too. As the schools open up again, the business changes, and September brings a big turning point in the kitchen garden too. Tomatoes no longer need constant fussing: the tips are cut to stop new growth, watering has stopped, and all the plant’s energy is going into ripening its fruit. The hours saved from watering are quickly filled with harvesting - this is our most abundant time of year. Weeding and tidying are back on the list too, as we hit the final growth spurt of the year.
And what a harvest it is. Sweet peppers are stealing the show: ‘lemon dream’ and ‘tangerine dream’, just three inches long but bursting with flavour - sweet with the faintest tickle of heat. Padron plants are so prolific that you have to check them daily in sunny weather. And then there’s the giant ‘Kapia’ peppers, red and glossy, as big as your head.
The irony of all this bounty is that I sometimes wish it arrived a few weeks earlier, to line up with the height of summer when tomatoes, melons, peppers, and salads are in peak demand. Instead, just as the days cool and people start craving heartier meals, the garden delivers Mediterranean abundance. But that’s the climate we work with.
To make the most of it, we’re once again offering veg boxes to spa members through September - a little harvest festival of our own, with proceeds going to charity. People often ask about veg boxes, so it’s a joy to be able to share this seasonal glut with regular visitors.
A common assumption at Homewood is that we have the advantage of great soil to produce such healthy crops. But I have to disappoint: in truth, it’s heavy clay with bedrock lurking just 50cm below the surface. The secret lies in no-dig gardening. Over the seasons, we have built up a layer of fertility that has conditioned the clay naturally to make it much easier to grow with and will only get better each year. Adding compost each year made with organic materials, not only do we add nutrients, but we also improve the environment within the soil for life, which in turn benefits the crops we want to grow.
The seasons have shifted noticeably this year. Leaves are falling early, and my pumpkins had ripened by August (I’m slightly worried they might not make it to Halloween). The drought also reduced the number I would have expected. Top fruit has been more generous: apples, pears, and plums have thrived, thanks to a calm spring that set the blossom well. Our Victoria plums, in particular, were the juiciest I’ve ever tasted. The quince are the last fruits waiting in our little orchard - destined for some autumnal puddings, I hope.
Outdoors, every bed is full. Moisture-loving leeks and celeriac, transplanted back in May, are finally swelling fast after sitting tight all summer. Inside the polytunnel, it’s a different story: I’m busy sowing spinach, winter salads, parsley, chervil, fennel, chard, and spring onions for the winter and spring harvests. Some great choices for salads that are winter hardy are Red frills, salad rocket, claytonia, corn salad, land cress, and chervil.
A kitchen garden in September can be the pinnacle of a year’s work. Full beds, succulent leaves every shade of green, glossy fruit, swaying grasses, tall perennials, and overflowing flowers - none of which can be bought or replicated overnight. If you’ve been out there coaxing your patch through the heatwaves, now’s the time to pause, take it all in, and give yourself a well-earned pat on the back.
My new recipe is up - Blackberries with apple & mint granita and salted cream
Until next time…
Darren Stephens
Chef-Gardener, Homewood